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"Art+Tech"
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Art+Tech

Letters

Axiom or Aperion?

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Letters

Editor,

I've really benefited a lot from reading articles on the SoundStage! Network and have been looking at two packages that have been highly recommended on your sites.

1. Axiom Audio Epic 80-800 7.1
2. Aperion Audio Verus Grand 7.2 (your site highly recommended the Verus Grand Towers)

I'm looking for a good set within $6600. Are these the best systems I can get for my money? If so, which one is better? Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks a lot.

Sincerely,
Fred

Both Axiom and Aperion share some strengths in that they are speaker manufacturers that offer factory-direct products and, therefore, provide great value for the money because they can cut out middemen. Both companies have outstanding reputations for customer service and you can listen to both products in your home and, if you're not happy, you can return them. Both sets of speakers are ideal for home theater but also do justice to the finest music. I don’t think you'd be less than thrilled with either -- particularly for the money.

However, there are differences, and I think the most prominent might also be one that adheres to an old audiophile cliché. The Axiom speakers use an aluminum-dome tweeter and the Aperion speakers use a soft-dome tweeter. The Axioms are therefore extremely detailed yet stay natural sounding at loud volumes, while the Aperions have a warmish tonality that sounds rich and produces a large soundstage. Generalizing, those might be the biggest differences sonically between the two. Still, you should be comforted to know that both companies are engineering driven and produce loudspeakers that are essentially accurate to whatever signal you feed them, whether it be music or movie soundtracks -- exactly what you want from your speakers. . . . Jeff Fritz

Bettering the Logitech Squeezebox Touch

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

Having ripped half my CDs to my computer, I am now looking for the best way to play those files on my stereo.

I have read the article on the Logitech Squeezebox Touch and it seems promising, but would getting a DAC like the Simaudio 300D or Wyred 4 Sound DAC-2 give me an obvious improvement in sound quality? Either would be connected to my Bryston preamp. I could also use the DAC for the cable box and DVD player. Any insight would be appreciated. I understand the difference in cost, but the article on the Squeezebox seems to imply I would have to pay a lot more to get a sound improvement.

Rene Fortier

The reason that the article implies that you’d have to pay a lot more to get a significant improvement in sound quality is because the Squeezebox Touch is an outstanding device. Frankly, it can better the sound of a lot of external DACs, and it has features that none of them has. For what Logitech is asking for the Touch, it’s amazingly complete.

But that doesn’t mean that you can’t improve on its sound -- the Touch is great, but it isn’t the final word in high fidelity. Which DAC would be better, though, isn’t easy to say because it will depend on your own listening preferences and, also, on the other components in your system. Therefore, you’re really going to have to try things out yourself to know.

If I can make a suggestion, though, it’s this: get a Squeezebox Touch. Frankly, I don’t think you can go wrong with it, particularly for the price. Even if it doesn’t remain as your main DAC, I’m pretty sure you’ll still find use for it in your main system or, perhaps, another system. The reason that I’m recommending buying the Touch is that it’s a very cost-effective way to get started and it can serve as a great benchmark as you look for other DACs that might better it. But as the review implies, don’t be surprised if you have to pay much, much more to get a significant improvement. . . . Doug Schneider

Do better cables matter?

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I was wondering if you can share some information regarding the use of exotic HDMI and loudspeaker cables. It seems the debate over using ordinary versus exotic cables is still going on. Do they make any difference at all and, if so, is the extra cash spent on exotic cables worth it? I can’t wait to hear your answer. Thank you in advance.

Regards,
Maximillan Cue

There’s a consensus among SoundStage! Network reviewers that insofar as video quality goes, one doesn’t need a high-priced, exotic HDMI cable to see a perfect picture providing you’re not running too long a length, something I’ll touch on briefly. Our reviewers have tried really cheap and really expensive cables and, providing the cable is properly constructed and appropriate for the type of HDMI connection you’re trying to make (1.3, 1.4, etc.), they can’t see a difference. Most likely because it’s transferring digital data that simply tells the display what colors to light up the pixels. That doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use a good-quality cable. Some of the really cheap cables out there break easily and have lousy connectors, so you want to avoid them. Companies such as AudioQuest and DH Labs make good-quality HDMI cables for fair prices.

I’ve found that where differences can be found among HDMI cables is when you have a very long cable length. What you’ll find, though, doesn’t have as much to do with picture quality as it does with whether the signal is getting to the display device or not. For example, I use a good-quality 30’ HDMI cable that runs from my processor to my projector. Some people say that you need an HDMI repeater to run lengths longer than 25’, but this cable works fine, at least up to that length. If it were longer, perhaps the signal wouldn’t make it and the projector would show no picture at all -- I’ve seen that happen in certain installations. If that happened to me, I’d either have to get a better-quality cable that would allow a longer length or, most likely, I’d simply insert a repeater to go the extra distance. 

As far as loudspeaker cables go, that’s a different story. In this instance we’re talking about an analog signal and some people do find sonic differences among cables. I’ve never found the differences to be as significant as some proclaim them to be, but I have found enough of a difference that I choose my loudspeakers cables as well as interconnects carefully. Once again, quality is important, so you have to look out for that, but you also have to consider the sound, which means trying different cables out. Loudspeaker cable brands I’ve personally used and have had good success with include: DH Labs, Nordost, Crystal Cable, Siltech, and Nirvana Audio. . . . Doug Schneider

Is the PS3 still the best Blu-ray player?

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

A few years ago, Sony’s PlayStation 3 was considered to be the best Blu-ray player on the market. Is that still true today?

Mark T.

You’re correct -- not that many years ago, Sony's PS3 was the best Blu-ray player on the market. That's because when Blu-ray players were first introduced, most were pretty pitiful as well as quite expensive. The PS3 easily outperformed most, if not all, and was fairly priced and feature rich. The PS3 was, and still is, easily upgradeable. Back then, buying a PS3 was a no-brainer.

Things have changed and there are plenty of good Blu-ray players on the market today, and some of them are quite cheap and very good. For example, I bought a $99 LG player for my second system and it works great -- a fraction of what a PS3 costs. However, I still use my PS3 in my main system and I keep it up-to-date by downloading the latest upgrades that Sony keeps putting out. It’s also 3D Blu-ray compatible and it streams Netflix movies flawlessly.

Part of the decision-making process today has to do with determining how much you want to spend on your player. When I went shopping for the player for my second system, I didn’t want to spend more than 100 dollars, so that’s how I ended up with the LG. However, if I were shopping for a Blu-ray player today and my budget was higher, I would certainly look at all the Blu-ray players that are out there, and I would definitely consider a PS3 as well. To me, it's still one of the best you can buy. . . Doug Schneider

Mirage advice

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I just wanted to say thank you for your advice regarding the Mirage OMD-28s. I sold my Dynaudio Contour 1.8s earlier this week and the Mirages arrived yesterday. While they sounded atrocious right out of the box, they came on strong after a few hours of playing. I think they'll do well with my Krell integrated. Thanks again. 

Best,
Hans Wetzel

I really like these speakers, but I’m not that surprised that the OMD-28s needed to be broken in a bit, because the surrounds on the midrange and woofers are quite stiff when new. A few hours of playing should be all that’s needed. If you haven't already, I recommend experimenting with placement since where they’re situated in the room will likely have a big impact on their sound. . . . Doug Schneider

Anthem or Sherbourn?

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I have a question regarding what to choose: a processor or a receiver. I was going to buy the Anthem MRX 700 receiver and hook it up to the Emotiva UPA-1 monoblocks for the Omen Def speakers. Now I am kind of confused because I saw a processor that grabbed my attention: the Sherbourn PT-7020A. What do you recommend for me, the Anthem MRX 700 receiver or the Sherbourn PT-7020A? 

Thanks and best regards,
Miguel C.

Your question is very difficult to answer because the two products are not really comparable, even though they’re roughly around the same price and they both can be used in a multichannel setup. The MRX 700 is a receiver, meaning that it has processor and amplifier sections (seven channels of amplification to be exact). Since you’re planning to use the Emotiva UPA-1 mono amplifiers, the Anthem’s amplifier section will basically go to waste if you’re only creating a stereo setup (see paragraph below for my comments on that). On the other hand, maybe you don’t need to use the UPA-1s at all. The Omen Def speakers are supposed to be quite efficient and easy to drive, so I’m pretty sure the MRX 700’s amplifier stages would play well with them and you wouldn’t need to buy the UPA-1s. But maybe you already own the UPA-1s and like them and want to continue using them. The PT-7020A is a feature-rich processor and, therefore, makes more sense to use with the UPA-1s. So, given that, you can guess that I’m leaning toward the PT-7020A.

But there’s still something I’m confused about and have to address, since it affects the recommendation. The MRX 700 and PT-7020A are both 7.1-channel products and what you’re describing is a stereo setup. Are you planning to expand into a full home-theater system in the future and use more channels? If not, you really only need a stereo preamp, and you probably don’t need all the other features that a multichannel receiver or processor provides. But if you are planning to expand into a full home-theater system, then the MRX 700 might be a better choice, because it has all those amplifier channels built in already, meaning that if you add on three or five more speakers (depending on whether you build a five- or seven-channel setup), you don’t have to buy more amplifiers to power them. If you bought the PT-7020A, then you would have to add more amplifiers as you buy more speakers.

I can’t answer your question definitively because I don’t know exactly what your needs are, but I do hope I have given you enough good information to guide your decision accordingly. . . . Doug Schneider

iTunes artwork and skipping XRCDs

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Letters

I am new to using a computer for storing my music. I have been copying my CDs to one of the hard drives in my desktop computer using iTunes. For most of the albums I can get the artwork through the iTunes store, but for 20% I get nothing. Is there some other way to get this missing artwork that will work with the iTunes library? Also, the copies of my JVC XRCDs are skipping. Is that normal using Apple Lossless. Should I use a different format?

Rene Fortier

You can manually add album artwork to your iTunes library. For a specific album, under the Edit tab, choose Get Info. Then search for your album artwork online -- Amazon.com is a great resource for this. Then just drag and drop the artwork into the Artwork box in the Get Info window for that particular album. That's all there is to it. As for the skipping XRCDs, I’m not sure why they would be doing that. Do make sure you have Error Correction turned on in iTunes. I’ve personally had no issues with using Apple Lossless for any discs I’ve ripped. . . . Jeff Fritz

ATCs, Gallos, and "singing"

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Letters

To Wes Marshall,

I've just read your write-up of the Gallo Nucleus Reference 3.5, a speaker that I have been considering. I was pleasantly shocked to see you mention that you own ATCs. I had Active 50s, and then Active 100s, for a frustrating five-year stretch. I was never able to get them to "sing" in my room, whether fronted by an all-Naim system or with other components. Whenever the speakers were moved more than a couple of feet into the room, the bass got very uneven; when closer to the front wall, the speakers sounded veiled. I knew there was great sound lurking in there someplace, but I was never able to get it out. Had all sorts of Mana supports for a while (the ATC importer was also the Mana importer, and he set everything up for me during a lengthy visit at one point), but that didn't do the trick either. At the moment I'm running a pair of active PMC AML1 stand mounts. They do OK in the room, but lack the scale I'm after, not surprising for small two-ways. If I could wind the clock back ten years, to before I landed the ATC ASL50s, I'd probably still have loads of Naim and speakers like the little Reynaud Trente's (only larger!) that sounded utterly gorgeous when I heard them months after the ATCs arrived. Since then, as the Brits would say, I've "lost the plot."

Could you give me a quick comparison of the Gallos compared to the ATCs? I'm one of the relative few in the US who's had actual experience with active ATCs -- but I've never heard any Gallos! Neither of the two purported Gallo dealers in Seattle even stocks the Strada, let alone the Ref. 3.5.

Jim Levitt

The ATCs have been a constant source of pleasure for over a decade, more than twice as long as I’ve owned any other piece of equipment and that includes collecting good stuff since 1973. The reason is they do "sing" for me. Based on what I read in your note, it seems that defining "sing" may be a substantial issue for you.

I’m sure you understand that whenever you buy a speaker, you have to appreciate its tradeoffs. Do you want to have the speaker knock the breath out of you every time a bass drum gets thwacked? Or do you want to have the speakers completely disappear while relentlessly showing every gradation of a master’s touch on a Steinway? You can’t have both. You can come close. Very few large speakers can get close to the disappearing act (the Gallos can). The ATCs give outstanding response to the bottom note of a stand-up bass, but they are hopeless when trying to rattle the walls on a 16Hz organ pedal. The reason I bought the ATCs, and why I still have them, is their phenomenal transient performance. Whether it’s the delicate rasp of a bow on a violin, the pluck of a fingernail on a guitar string, or the pop of a mallet on a xylophone, the transients are perfect. I count that ability very highly. Others want something else.

The audiophile next door to me loves what he refers to as the pounding, chugging and slamming of the Bruckner-to-Shostakovich time frame. He uses a pair of Genelec monitors and a Gallo subwoofer. But, and this is vitally important, he has those monitors set up the way they would be in a studio, i.e., close and wide at perfect ear level above his desk with the sub at his feet under his desk. So he gets a convincing soundstage, Genelec-style clarity, and the impact of the sub, albeit only in the bottom octave. He sacrifices some of the impact in the second and third octaves, but that low-end stuff keeps him happy. So there are two different versions of "sing."

Obviously, in the bass, a large room and a small speaker add up to a rapid drop off in bass power. The important issue for something like the spectacular PMC AML1s is they actually respond quite far down, but they do not and cannot create visceral impact. Not enough air is moved. That is not a deal-killer for most engineers, because in a studio (the theater for which they are intended) the important issue is to have low enough noise and distortion that the recording or mastering engineer can hear everything that is going on in a mix.

I use Digidesign monitors which are built by PMC and based largely on the AML1. I love them for their ability to disappear, leaving a wall of music. I also love their snappy transient response. For eight hours each day, I use them to listen to either recorded music or my own music, but I do it as they were intended. They are in a nearfield arrangement, at 30 and 150 degrees, pointed with the tweeter axes crossing just behind my head as I type, and directly at my head when I lean back to rest, about two meters from my head.

My ATCs are in a room that is about five times the size of your room. Most of that difference comes from a very high ceiling. In any case, there are no boundaries anywhere close to the speakers other than the front wall. The speakers are 11' from me and form an equilateral triangle. That’s still a bit far for midfield monitors, but I am trying to cover two seats, whereas in a studio, they are only trying to cover one seat. One way to make sure that professional monitors work for you is to use them in the way they were intended. That means keeping them away from boundaries and close to the listener. That’s when the "singing" occurs. Speakers aimed at the home market also have a single best placement, but they are usually not meant to be as close as monitors.

Regarding your last paragraph, Anthony Gallo makes some very nice-sounding speakers using myriad 4" drivers. It’s the Reference 5LS, another idea worth pursuing.

You obviously have both the money to enjoy great speakers and the intention to use it, so, I have one important question. Why not get on a plane and go to places that carry what you want to hear?

Good luck and lets us know what you do. . . . Wes Marshall

Mirage or B&W?

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I had the pleasure of reading your Mirage OMD-28 review from a few years ago and wondered if you might be able to spare a few minutes to offer some advice. I currently have a pretty analytical system consisting of Dynaudio Contour 1.8 Mk II speakers and a Krell 300il integrated amplifier (equivalent to 400xi) being fed lossless music from my computer via a Benchmark DAC. I love the resolution and transparency, but am getting to a point where I think I need something warmer and more involving in my system.

I grew up with my father listening to music through some Mirage M5si speakers, and my brother through old-school B&W 801s. Consequently, I'm thinking about a used pair of Nautilus 802s or 803s, or Mirage OMD-28s. The Mirages can be purchased new for $2700 online, while the B&Ws would cost closer to $4000-4500. In your opinion, would something like the Mirages be a step down in terms of overall resolution from what I have? Having heard the 803s and 802s before, I trust that I am not sacrificing resolution for warmth if I were to move to B&Ws. With the Mirages, however, I don't have the same confidence, as several reviewers online seem to indicate that their primary strength is in home theater. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Kindest regards,
Hans

One thing I have wondered lately is if the OMD-28s being sold online for $2700 per pair are the exact same as the $8000 OMD-28s that I reviewed on SoundStage! A/V (no longer a current site in the SoundStage! Network, but remains online for access to reviews like this one). When I reviewed the product, the Mirage brand was owned by Audio Products International (API). Since then, it got sold to Klipsch, and Klipsch recently got sold to Audiovox. One reader did tell me that Klipsch told him that they were the same, so, for the time being, I have to assume that they are, but I can’t be 100 percent sure. I like to mention this now so people know what I’ve been thinking, since I’m fielding a lot of questions about the OMD-28 and I like to preface my responses now with this warning.

Your Dynaudio Contour 1.8 Mk II speakers are excellent -- I’ve heard them many times and really liked the sound. Without question, the B&W 802 and 803  will be closer in sound to the Dynaudio 1.8 Mk II than the Mirage OMD-28 because the B&Ws, like all Dynaudio speakers, are forward-firing designs. The Mirages are called an Omipolar design because they splay ample sound in all directions. Basically, they’re like a 360-degree radiator that directs a little more energy to its front than rear. The B&W speakers will likely be warmer sounding than your Dynaudios, because B&W’s “house sound” tends to put more emphasis in the low end, which results in a warmer, richer tonal balance than Dynaudio provides. In this way the OMD-28s are similar to B&W’s speakers -- they, too, have more weight in the low end compared to most, which makes them warm sounding.

The reviewers who say that the OMD-28’s primary strength is home theater don’t really know what they’re talking about. The OMD-28s do perform exceptionally well in a home-theater setting, but they perform just as well in a stereo setup. When I hear people say that they should only be used for home theater I get annoyed. The difference between the OMD-28s and forward-firing speakers is their presentation -- since they splay sound quite evenly in all directions, they present a huge, spacious soundfield that fills a room but has less image specificity than a forward-firing speaker provides. I happen to like that spaciousness, because it draws my attention away from the speakers and more into the music. On the other hand, others may not.

The biggest concern I’ve always had with the OMD-28 is that you need a really beefy amplifier to drive them. If you don’t have sufficient power the amplifier can clip and do harm to the speakers, and you won’t get a sound that’s as spacious, lively, and resolving as you should. I’d recommend a solid-state amp that delivers 150Wpc into 8 ohms and has good current capability to drive low impedances as a minimum.

The question remains: Is it better to go with B&W or Mirage? I agree with your hunch, the B&W is probably the safer bet, albeit a more expensive one. I happen to personally like the Mirage OMD-28 and that would be my choice, providing that the speakers for $2700 are exactly like the ones I reviewed. . . . Doug Schneider

Five or seven channels?

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I went into the store to buy a new five-channel receiver to replace my old one and the salesman said that I should go for a seven-channel one. I only have five speakers and a subwoofer. Does this make sense?

Rich Thompson

It makes sense if you plan to buy more speakers to expand your surround-sound setup. It also makes sense if the receivers are priced the same, because it's nice to have those two channels available in the event you want to expand later -- 7.1-channel surround can provide a more immersive, enveloping experience, providing the software has been encoded that way. On the other hand, I’m pretty happy with the 5.1-channel setup I have here, and you might be too. . . . Doug Schneider

High-resolution output with an O!Play

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Letters

To Roger Kanno,

I read your article about the Asus O!Play. I connected it to a Cambridge Audio DacMagic DAC with an optical cable. It can play the 24-bit/96kHz FLAC files, but the DacMagic only shows 44.1 or 48kHz and not 96kHz. Can you help me?

Thanks,
Balint Rosko

It seems that later versions of the firmware for the Asus O!Play restrict it from outputting 88.1kHz and 96kHz digital audio signals via its optical output. (It was never able to output 88.1 and 96kHz signals over HDMI as far as I know).

Although later versions of the firmware have some additional features and reportedly reduce compatibility issues, I would suggest that you downgrade the firmware to version 1.28 if you want to output high-resolution digital audio via the optical output of the O!Play. . . . Roger Kanno

Thank you for Energy Take Classic review

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Letters

To Kevin East,

I just wanted to express my extreme gratitude for your heartfelt review of the Energy Take Classic speaker system. I had been looking for sometime online, after saving some money up for a home-theater system within my very modest budget to replace a HTiB system I purchased several years ago to get the experience of 5.1 sound. You could not have been more precise in the review. I got my speakers today (without even being able to hear them first) along with a Pioneer VSX-820 receiver. I patiently unpacked the system and proceeded to get it set up. I got everything hooked-up and then decided to make floating shelves for the front L/R and surround speakers to let the port in the back breathe a little, all the while hoping I made the right decision and in high anticipation of hearing them do their thing when I finished.

I could not be more pleased. After a Blu-ray of Wall-E, pay TV of The Lord of the Rings and a few other movies, I then moved on to a few CDs: first, Eric Clapton's Unplugged then Kaki King's Everybody Loves You. She's an acoustic guitar virtuoso, nothing but her strumming, tapping, and intricately playing a beautiful sound. I'd highly recommend it if you still have those Takes around because she makes them shine. I was inundated with the sound and symmetry from these little speakers. It brought a smile to my face as I continued to dig into my once-forgotten music collection. They sounded so good and I'm so delighted I did make the right decision with your help. I'm not one to email much but I had to write and just say thank you.

Sincerely,
Mike Rhodes

OMD-28 wiring

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

Did you remove the Mirage OMD-28 jumpers when you had them? In your experience, did the OMD-28s work best single-wired, biwired, or triwired? What cables did you use? 

Thanks,
Emerson Foster

I think that I get so many questions about Mirage’s OMD-28 speakers because I was one of the few who reviewed them (on SoundStage! A/V, a legacy site that is archived now but still available for viewing). That’s surprising, really, because they’re incredibly good and I thought more reviewers would have been able to get their hands on them when they were current. In fact, this is still one of my favorite speaker designs.

About the review: Mirage made no stipulations on how the speakers were to be used for the review, so I went with the assumption that single-wiring them would be fine. To me, that was also the preferred way to review them, because I feel that most people will likely single-wire the OMD-28s to save some money -- one set of cables is obviously cheaper than two or three (assuming they’re all the same kind, of course). I didn’t biwire or triwire them to find out if I could hear any differences. 

The jumpers used were the ones Mirage supplied with the speakers. I used Nirvana S-L speaker cables most of the time, which have been my reference for over ten years. However, just because I didn’t biwire or triwire them doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t try. Just remember to remove the jumpers if you use them this way. And if you do decide to try it, please write back to me and tell me what your experiences are. . . . Doug Schneider

OMD-28s again

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Letters

To Doug Schneider,

I have Paradigm Monitor 7s and I want to change them for the upper-level Paradigm Reference Signature speakers, but a few days ago I was on the Vanns website and I saw the Mirage OMD-28 for $1300 each in the black finish, brand new. My question is: Should I get these Mirage speakers now that they are on sale? I hear they are magnificent. Or I could wait and go for Signatures, or perhaps speakers from Definitive Technology. I would appreciate your kind advice.

Regards and thank you!
Miguel Angel Casellas Argáez

I get this question a lot because I originally reviewed the Mirage OM Design OMD-28 speakers when they sold for $8000 per pair (the review appeared on our SoundStage! A/V site that is no longer actively updated, but is still available to see), and I get asked even more often now because you can buy the speakers for a fraction of their original price. What I truly hope is that the speaker that’s being offered now for so much less money is identical to the speaker I reviewed. I hope that they are using the same high-quality parts and the quality of workmanship hasn't sufferered. I mention this because when I answer this question I’m assuming that they are the same speaker because the current asking price seems almost too good to be true. 

That said, there’s no doubt that Paradigm’s Signature models are outstanding -- fellow writer Roger Kanno uses a full Signature-based system as his reference for music and home theater. Definite Technology makes good speakers too, but I like the Signatures as well as the OMD-28s better.

I obviously think very highly of the OMD-28s, and that ultra-low price makes them even more appealing. If they're the exact same speaker, that's an incredibly good deal. The only caveats I have with the OMD-28s are that they need a very powerful amplifier to sound their best -- they’re not so much inefficient as they are difficult to drive, particularly in the bass -- and you need to set them up in a pretty big room. If you have those things, they can sound amazing and will better speakers many times their price.

But that is about all I can say on the matter. In my opinion, you can’t go wrong with any of the speakers you’ve chosen, but you’ll have to make the final call on which ones you want and how much you're willing to pay. Good luck and write back to let us know your decision. . . . Doug Schneider

  1. The Mirage OMD-28 and night-time listening
  2. Sub settings
  3. Using a receiver as a preamplifier-processor
  4. Older Polks versus newer Aperions
  5. Aperion's new speakers
  6. Searching for Mozart
  7. 3D movies
  8. Three-channel recordings
  9. Mix and match?
  10. Curvi-Hifi Model 1 Version 2 review
  11. Bigger center?
  12. "Free is Good" is a good read
  13. PlayStation 3 for Blu-ray?
  14. Upgrade Dilemma
  15. Aperion's in-ceiling speaker

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